An Uplifting Experience

You want? Can, only RM200,000, and wait one year. Oh, basic truck not included, you have to supply your own. This fabricator is in the outskirts of Bangkok, Thailand.

I am writing this in response to several requests and queries from friends who asked about methods to make their 4X4 vehicles taller. I am neither an engineer nor a mechanic, and can touch only on some theory and my own experiences, good and bad, as a guinea pig. So, be warned, proceed at your own risk. Some of the points and principles that will be touched on would be conveyed best with diagrams and other visual aids but I don't have the skills and tools to create them so words and your imagination will have to suffice.

Think "Big Foot", think "COOL!" So, tall 4X4s look good. The bigger the tyres, the better the truck looks. (Note, the word "truck" is used here as an affectionate term for all 4X4s, not just the 4X4 pick-ups that have become popular in recent years.)
Being tall has real advantages when you go off to play in the rough stuff. Keeping the body high up, away from the mud, is the best way to ensure progress. Being low, it is all too easy to be stranded with your truck's belly sitting on the mud (or sand), with all four wheels spinning futilely. When you are like a beached whale, all traction aids like diff lockers and electronic traction control become useless.
The most effective way to gain stature is to fit bigger tyres. By "bigger", I mean the tyre's diameter. Of course, the bigger tyres tend to be wider as well, and it's the wider or fatter tyres that have come to be associated with what looks good on a 4X4.
The first problem encountered by anyone who has tried to fit tyres substantially bigger than standard is that they are too big. If you're now thinking "duhhh ...",permit me to elaborate.
Larger tyres will hit or foul various parts of the vehicle's bodywork, especially up in front, where the tyres actually have to turn left and right to steer, as well as rotate and move up and down as the suspension flexes.
The problem then will not just be irritating noises, it will eventually lead to parts getting damaged or destroyed.
The typical 4X4 pick-ups come off the showroom floor fitted with tyres that range from 28 to 30 inches in diameter. Don't bother with calculating from the width and aspect ratios, just take a measuring tape or long ruler and measure yours to find out exactly what diameter it is.
Generally speaking, you should be able to upgrade to tyres up to 31" without any major modifications. Depending on which truck you have, there may be minor issues with the rear edge of the bumper or front mud flaps, which may have to be trimmed or removed, respectively.

Lifted (right) and not lifted.

Aside from increased diameter, wider tyres may also cause problems by touching various parts of the suspension, such as springs or radius arms. You could end up with reduced ability to turn the steering. In the jungle, a simple three-point turn could become a 13-point turn.
The problems associated with increased diameter can be fixed with a lift, and with width, by changing to wheels with a more negative offset (i.e. wheels that stick out further from the vehicle.) Both of these "fixes' will give you an instant improvement in looks, but also, possibly, create problems with driveability and durability of your truck.

BODY LIFT

The first way in which you go about fitting bigger tyres is by lifting the body (or cabin) up from the chassis or frame. This is done by undoing the dozen or so nuts that secure the body to the frame, jacking the body up, inserting lift blocks of 3, 3 or 4 inches in height, then securing with longer bolts, and ... Voila! A taller truck!
But it's really not that simple. Some vital components are attached to the chassis (like engine, gearbox and radiator) while others are fixed to the body (electrical and electronic components and wiring harnesses), and some have one end secured to the body and the other to the chassis (like steering and brakes), so adjustments will be necessary.
The scary mods needed include cutting and lengthening the steering shaft, gear shift lever, transfer case lever, and possibly, replacement of brake lines with longer ones. Failure to do these and do them properly, can lead to issues that are irritating at best, and disastrous at worst. Like total brake failure, for example.
My first experience with a body lift went well because the workshop did a professional job. Several years and a new truck later, I went back to the same shop and got the same procedure done, with different results. Perhaps it was a different mechanic who did the job but, whatever the reason, the steering shaft was not done right and I had to endure squeaking whenever turning the steering, and the transfer case lever had to be adjusted several times before it stopped popping out of gear. Suddenly finding yourself in neutral while climbing a steep hill is not a fun experience.
These days, I'd advocate body lifts as a last resort.

Some of the components needed for an IFS lift.

SUSPENSION LIFT

A suspension lift can be a simple matter of spending money to buy longer springs and shock absorbers, or a very messy, complicated affair with many side effects. The easier ones are usually mild lifts of up to 2 inches (50mm or less).
Almost all 4X4 pick-ups today come with independent front suspension (IFS) and rear rigid axle with leaf springs. A notable exception is the pick-up version of the Land Rover Defender, which employs coil springs and rigid axles for both front and rear.
The latest generation of trucks feature IFS that uses a combination coil spring and absorber (or damper) with upper and lower A-arms (also known as wishbone, like the chicken breastbone), while earlier generations mostly used torsion bars with upper and lower wishbones.
There is no such thing as the best type of suspension, each has its own pros and cons, and the final design is the culmination of the engineers' best efforts to reach the best compromise to meet many different criteria of performance, such as handling, comfort and load carrying.
So, do we want to mess with the work of large teams of the best, brightest and most experienced engineers that the resource-rich car makers can find? Of course we do! 'Cos we want our trucks to look cool!
There is usually a cheap and easy way to do things, and then there is the proper way, which is usually not easy, and certainly not cheap.
One subject from the classroom of many years ago that needs to be revisited is geometry. Most suspension systems involve movement of some components relative to some other components that the former are attached to. That means some form of triangulation, and some pivoting around a pivot point. In simple terms, changing the length of one side of a triangle without altering the length or relative angles of other two sides, is impossible.
About this point, I feel like giving up. It's getting complicated. When talking about the front wheels, we need to consider wheel alignment parameters, like caster, camber and toe, all of which can be affected by simply changing the length of the spring.
To bring harmony back to the arrangement, you'd need to change the length of at least one of the A-arms (usually the upper), and change or adjust the steering tie rods. The objective would be to ensure that the new triangles have the same ratios as the original.
Then, for IFS trucks, there is the issue of the front driveshafts. These are articulated in such a way that, in standard form, they can swing up and down comfortably as the suspension and wheel assembly moves up and down with the terrain. By making the suspension taller, the driveshafts will be tilted downwards (a little or a lot, depending on extent of lift), using up part of the downward flex it has. If the lift is taken too far, the shaft will extend downward to its limit, and beyond. If bigger and heavier wheels/tyres are fitted as well, then don't be surprised if the front driveshafts either pop out or break.
One way to address this is to lower the front axle to a similar extent as the suspension lift, so that the driveshafts are as close to horizontal as possible when the suspension is not flexing. This would require some form of lift kit that includes bits for axle relocation.
At the rear, suspension lift kits for leaf springs usually comprise a block (can be made of metal or some form of plastic) that goes between the leaf springs and the axles, longer U-bolts, and longer absorbers. Again, mild lifts should work reasonably well but taken to extreme, they can cause instability. Just think of running around in sneakers, then wearing 2" heels, and then 4" platform shoes, and you should get the idea.
4X4s with rigid front axles and coil springs have to deal with the same forces but they do it in different ways, and so any attempt to achieve a lift will have to be done in different ways ...

RIGID AXLES 

Newer Land Rover with coil springs, i.e., the Defenders, use a suspension design that is slightly different from others. At the rear, the rigid axle is held on the centre line by an A-arm with a ball joint which allows the axle to move up and down but not side-to-side.
Most other 4X4s with coil springs and rigid axles use a Panhard rod, which does a similar job but does allow some side-to-side movement when under extreme articulation, and also when the vehicle is given an extreme lift.
When lifting an axle held in place by a panhard rod, it is necessary to either replace with an adjustable rod, or relocate one of the rod's mounts so that the panhard rod remains more or less horizontal at rest. This applies to a Defender's front suspension as well because it uses a Panhard rod. With the engine at the front, there is no space to use an A-arm similar to that at the rear.
If these modifications or adjustments are not done, the front and rear wheels may not line up properly with each other, and either or both axles may not line up with the chassis.

TO BE CONTINUED

How Much Torque? Too Much Is Just Enough

How much torque does your 4X4's engine produce? 180Nm? Over 200Nm? That's so last century. Over 300? Now, you're in the 21st Century. Over 500Nm? That's serious. 750Nm? Touareg V10. More, more, more ...

There's no substitute for size when you want to haul lots of stuff around. “No replacement for displacement,” as the Yanks love to say.

So, you want to do some serious shopping? Buying in bulk to save money? You need a big vehicle, then, and they don’t come much bigger than the Mercedes Actros, which may be just the choice for heavy-duty shopaholics.

While the average sedan can probably lug around 200kg or so of shopping without running out of puff, and any self-respecting pick-up can pick up 800kg to a tonne, the Actros hauls up to 80 tonnes without so much as a bead of sweat.

Of course, having a large boot or cargo compartment is just part of the story. Once your bargains have been safely stowed away, the vehicle’s engine needs to have enough grunt to get you and your newly-acquired belongings home.

The average 1.6-1.8l family car can call upon 110-120 horses, and around 160-180 Newton-metres is considered healthy torque for toting loads about. Volkswagen Touareg V10 Diesel, 750Nm.

The Mercedes Actros’ V6 engine pumps out 1,850Nm, and redlines at 2,500rpm. (No, the figures are not typo errors.) If you like horses, it delivers about about 395.  BHP, that is.

I guess you can figure out by now that the Actros is one special vehicle. It is, and even getting into the driver’s seat requires a special technique. You grip the two grab rails provided, climb up the steps and swing your behind into the spacious cabin.

The cockpit is roomy and offers a commanding view of the road ahead and out the driver’s side, but rearward visibility can be awkward, depending on the accessories fitted. The large side wide-angle mirrors do help quite a bit, though.

The high position takes a little getting used to, but anyone who drives a 4X4 will appreciate the advantage of being able to see further. The front seats are designed to be comfortable over long periods while rear passengers get a well-padded seat that’s as comfortable as a mattress (and even looks like one).

The controls are well sorted out ergonomically but, at first glance, there are many more switches and stalks – some with unfamiliar functions – than in most other vehicles. There sure are a lot of gauges and dials in the wrap-around dash.

The gear shifter is a tiny T-bar perched at the tip of the left armrest, conveniently placed for easy operation. Playstation fans will find changing gears a breeze, although choosing the correct gear for the occasion may be perplexing because the Actros has a 16-speed transmission. (That’s right, eight gears multiplied by two because it has a high and a low range.)

The driving procedure is also a bit unusual, and needs getting used to. You select the gear first, then depress and release the clutch lever to get the vehicle moving.

Next, you push the spring-loaded gear lever forward to shift up, and the indicator in the dash shows which gear you’ve selected. But, the shifting is not actually done until you depress and release the clutch pedal, whereupon the gearbox electronically moves the cogs.

If you haven’t figured it out yet, the Actros is a truck. And not just any truck, but one powered by a massive 11,946cc diesel engine! How about that for displacement?

The Mercedes Actros is not the fastest vehicle I’ve ever tried, but it certainly is one of the coolest vehicles and the heaviest I’ve ever had the privilege of taking for a spin.

It’s also a real heavyweight when it comes to bragging rights. Imagine telling your friends, “Hey guys, I drove a truck today!” They’ll probably roll their eyes and wonder what the fuss is all about, with the thousands of 4X4 pick-up trucks all over the place. Then, you show them the picture.

That cute chimp may have had something to do with the popularity of the TV series, BJ and the Bear, but much of the credit must surely go to the 18-wheeled big rig and the romantic image of the rugged, macho trucker that is so much a part of modern American folklore.

After all the anticipation and the physical effort of climbing up into the cab, getting the behemoth moving turned out to be surprisingly easy.

Many of the controls are similar to those you’d expect to find in a car, even if the shapes may be slightly different from what we’re familiar with. The parking brake, for example, looks like a miniature manual gearshift lever.

The parking brake is a very important feature in prime movers because they have to be able to hold the entire rig – tractor head as well as laden trailer – on a slope, even if the trailer’s brakes fail.

There are also a few controls that are not found in cars, such as the exhaust brake lever.

After a quick briefing by Salleh, a 15-year trucking veteran, my head was spinning with all the details. It sounded so complicated, and the consequences of getting it wrong could be catastrophic.

But, we were on the wide, smooth tarmac of the RM100mil Automotive Centre of Excellence in Kuala Langat, Selangor, and there was nothing around to hit or run over, except journalists and several potential Actros customers.

Following Salleh’s clear, concise instructions, I got the juggernaut moving without undue fuss, and with impressive smoothness, even if say so myself.

“See, it’s so easy a blind man can drive this,” Salleh exclaims. “Nowadays, truckers are so lucky … got power steering, not like the old trucks, which you have to steer like this,” he added, demonstrating the full-body exertion that many of us have seen truckers go through to turn their vehicles.

I’m sure a visually-challenged person can, indeed, get it moving, but how can he manoeuvre the Actros, with a trailer, through traffic on a public road?

Its specifications – all-round disc brakes, parabolic springs in front and air suspension at the rear, ABS, EBD, ASR and even airbags – sound remarkably like a modern car’s, and show just how far the trucker’s lot has improved, thanks to technology.

If you’re thinking of rushing out to buy one, the good news is that the Mercedes Actros – priced from RM275,000 to RM340,000, depending on options – is cheaper than any model of the Mercedes E-Class. Also, you could actually make a living from it.

But, if you want it for a toy, road tax for a privately registered 12,000cc “green” diesel would be around RM85,000 a year. The JPJ probably wouldn’t allow it anyway. And, can you imagine the look on your neighbours’ faces if you parked a 2640 LS 6X4 (that’s three axles and six wheels, four of which are driven) in the side lane?

Playing Dirty, Staying Clean

There's ordinary dirty, and there's Ba'kelalan dirty.

Does your car wash kit include a spade? Ah Ngiu's does.

This is a black truck. Pic courtesy of Vance Lee.

When you take a 4X4 out to play in the mud, it's going to get muddy. That's kind of obvious, don't you think? So, we've established that 4X4 people don't mind getting their cars dirty.
But there's dirty, and there's really dirty, really very dirty and then there's outright filthy. Ordinary dirty is fine, that's no worse than driving on any city road in Malaysia after it rains, and especially just after you've washed your beloved ride.
But out on the trail, things get really messy. There are many kinds of mud, of varying viscosity and consistency and colour. Some will stick to your door handles, and windscreen, and side windows, and side mirrors, and cling o your shoes when you step out. All this is OK, all part and parcel of offroading.

Then there's the mud that gets shoved into every nook and crevice underneath the car, coating the suspension, steering, propshafts, gearbox ... in short, everything. And there's mud that clogs up the wheels (or rims, if you prefer) which is great for taking photos of that tell your friends how tough the trip was and, by extension, how tough you are. They are also okay, until you get back on the tarmac and begin to drive at normal road speeds, at which point they may cause enough imbalance in your front wheels to cause varying degrees of vibration.
One of the most important factors that determine how well your4X4 vehicle progresses in rough terrain is the tyres. Generally speaking, the bigger the tyres, and the more aggressive the treads, the better your progress will be.
To fit bigger-than-standard tyres, you'd probably need a new set of wheels that have a more negative offset than standard, i.e., they place the tyres further from the car's body. Without this extra offset, chances are high that the front tyres will foul parts of the wheel arch or suspension components or other parts of the body work.
But the negative offset (relative to standard wheels) will likely push the outer edge of the tyres beyond the car's fenders or mudguards. If aftermarket fenders are not added to ensure the tyres are shielded, then they will throw up mud with every turn, and this mud will end up all over the sides of the car. If the tyres protrude enough, it does not take much dirty driving to have the entire sides, including the windows, completely caked with mud.

The problem then is you won't be able to see. The front windscreen will also get dirt but at least the wipers and washer jets can help keep it clean enough that there is visibility directly to the front but you may have zero visibility to either side. It's safe to say that this is not a safe situation to be in when negotiating difficult terrain.
Furthermore, it is also illegal to have tyres protrude beyond the car's bodywork so, while it may make your truck look mucho macho, it will also attract the unwelcome attention of the JPJ and possibly the police.
To avoid all these problems, the solution is to add wider fenders that sufficiently cover the tyres.
There are two main types available - the rigid or semi-rigid types that are specifically made for a particular vehicle. For example, a Land Cruiser owner will have to find the specific model of fender made for his particular model car, and it will be different from those for Ford Rangers, which are different from the type for Mitsubishi Tritons, and so on. These would usually be the best option if looks are important but they tend to be fairly expensive. Try checking the various accessory reatilers on the web to find out just how much.
A cheaper solution is generic flexible flares that are one type, suits all makes. I came across a Facebook post by Billy Chan advertising this type for sale, and followed up with the advertiser, Ambassador Industrial (M) Sdn Bhd, a Malaysian subsidiary of an Australian company. For further information on the product, shipping and pricing call Billy on 0193250187 or message him through Facebook.
Now, let's get technical. Their product is flexible fenders extensions made from EPDM rubber (ethylene propylene diene monomer). I have forgotten most of my high school chemistry so this is what wikipedia has to say about EPDM: a type of synthetic rubber, is an elastomer which is characterized by a wide range of applications.
The E refers to ethylene, P to propylene, D to diene and M refers to its classification in ASTM standard D-1418. The M class includes rubbers having a saturated chain of the polymethylene type. Dienes currently used in the manufacture of EPDM rubbers are dicyclopentadiene (DCPD), ethylidene norbornene (ENB), and vinyl norbornene (VNB).
The main advantage is that it is cheap and cheerful. An average 4X4 needs 6 metres of the material, and this costs less than RM200, inclusive of courier delivery (to Kuching, in my case). This sum is to cover all four corners.
Moving along, I placed an order and within a couple of days, had the product in my hands. They had several profiles available and I asked for two types because of my peculiar needs.
My Land Rover 110 Defender High Capacity Pick-up (HCPU) is different from most other vehicles in the fender department because it has cargo tub that's wider than the cabin, so it comes from the factory with front fender flares as standard, but none for the rear. If it had been left well alone to run on standard tyres and wheels, this arrangement would have been fine because the every part of all four tyres would be completely covered. But, as mentioned above ...

Pneumatic riveter, broad head rivets ...

Fitting was relatively straightforward, requiring basic DIY skills, a power drill and a riveter with some 35 to 36 rivets. I chose to get professional help because there's this friend who has all kinds of nifty tools, like a pneumatic (compressed air-powered) rivet gun which makes everything so much more effortless, and also a supply of special rivets with extra wide heads that mean washers are not needed.
Only when we had gone more than half way through did we realise something was not quite right, and the flares looked wrinkly. So, we got a couple of strips of 1.3mm aluminium plate and riveted them as support, and it worked a treat.

A bit crooked ... but sorted eventually.

Later, I found out from Ambassador that the fender flare type I was using, WF 100, had a small hole running along the outer edge that I was supposed to thread a steel wire through to stiffen it. Ah so. But it was already installed and shoving a wire through is definitely easier done before the rubber is bent to fit the flare. So if you are inspired by this post to try the flares, take note.
The finished fenders look good, and the last couple of rainy days have confirmed that they work well in their intended roles.
That is, they will stop your car getting dirty from mud and other gunk thrown up by your own tyres. They are not guaranteed to keep your car shiny clean because there are so many other sources and causes out there that can dirty your pride and joy.
How well they hold up to abuse in the rough stuff, we will know only by putting it to more tests, including the tests of time. Stay tuned for updates.

Photos here

Before ... wheel sticks out.

After ... all covered up.

There are several profiles and widths available, to suit various needs.

This IS Africa!

I didn't just do 4X4s, Lamborghinis and jetplanes, I did two-wheelers, too. Especially when it's in some exotic location like South Africa, and at the invitation and expense of some well-heeled party like BMW.

IT’S Africa. This succinct phrase seems to be explanation enough whenever a wide-eyed visitor to the continent expresses awe, amazement or wonder.
A hole in the ground, about three inches (70cm) across, one of many that dotted the wide expanse of grassland, had prompted a question.
“It’s a mouse hole,” the tour guide explains with a knowing grin, obviously anticipating the next query.
It comes. “That’s huge … you must have very big mice here!”
“It’s Africa,” he replies, and that says it all.
Africa is home to the planet’s most fascinating creatures – the biggest, tallest and swiftest. A huge land of dazzling contrasts and breathtaking beauty.
It is also the ideal place for BMW to show off the R 1200 GS enduro tourer, the latest creation from its motorcycle division, BMW Motorrad.
Apart from grassy fields with giant holes and fantastic wildlife, South Africa offers a kind and temperate climate, well-designed roads with cambers and curves (that make for motorcycling heaven), which pass through some of the most spectacular landscapes money can’t buy.

Top Gear Malaysia editor Hezeri Samsuri.

And so it came to pass that I recently found myself in a town called George, about 400km east of Cape Town. It is a small settlement, the sixth oldest in South Africa, and famous for being the starting point of the Garden Route. As the name suggests, motorists are in for a visual treat.
The roads take you past lush plains painted in various shades of green, with a dash of brown for contrast, and a range of rugged mountains which form an imposing backdrop.
Take a right turn somewhere and you head for the mountains, which loom larger as the macadam snakes its way upward. It makes for a great drive in a nice sports car; still, it is nothing short of awesome on a powerful and well-behaved motorcycle.
BMW’s R 1200 GS qualifies as a powerful and well-behaved motorcycle, but it is also much more than that. It represents the sum total of lessons from over 80 years of history, of concepts laid down early in the 20th Century, and of technology that is so cutting edge that it continues to evolve every day. It is the mechanical embodiment of the philosophy that true principles and values need never change, and improvements should never cease.
The bike is virtually all new, sharing little with its immediate predecessor, the R 1150 GS, except a lineage that goes back to the world’s first super enduro – the 800cc R 80 GS that was shown to an unsuspecting world in 1980.

In those days, there were small and light dirt bikes with single-cylinder engines of up to 500cc, at the most. Big multi-cylinder engines were found only on big, heavy road bikes. GS, which stands for Gelande Strasse (German for “off-road” and “road”), changed all that.
Initially, sceptics thought the Bavarians had gone mad. As a university student then with a youthful passion for powerful motorcycles, I also thought it would never work because no one would want a scrambler so huge that you could not possibly do motocross with it, and a road bike that could not possibly keep up with the others because it looked so tall, bulky and ungainly.
The Paris-Dakar rally, which started around then, proved the critics wrong. Today, the GS family are the best-sellers in BMW Motorrad’s line-up, and every other motorcycle maker has big dual-purpose machines in the catalogue.

If you want to see the world from a motorcycle saddle, a bike like the GS is ideal. It’s built tough to take the pounding, and has a big low-revving engine designed to lug plenty of luggage without complaint, kilometre after kilometre. Since most customers don’t actually ride around the globe, there must be something appealing about owning a machine that can do it. It helps you look like you could – should you ever feel inclined to.
With the big GS Boxers (so named because the engine pistons’ back-and-forth motion resembles the punching fists of a boxer) accounting for 15% of all BMW motorcycle sales, no effort was spared to ensure the new model would be significantly better than its predecessor.

The single biggest advance the BMW engineers have achieved in crafting the R 1200 GS is represented by a plastic drum (in BMW blue, of course) which holds 30 litres of water. On it is painted a white circle and cross hair, representing the target – lose 30kg. It was a reminder for the engineers who turned up for work each day that weight was the enemy.
That would be a significant achievement these days for a compact car, and really quite incredible for a motorcycle of this size, which typically weighs about 250-260kg.
The strict diet of precise calculations, new construction techniques and high-strength lightweight materials worked, and the big machine weighs in at a trim 225kg, ready to hit the road with oil, fluids and a full tank of fuel. On top of that, they pushed power and torque up by about 18% and fuel consumption down by 8%!
The horizontally-opposed twin engine, a BMW trademark since the 1920s, retains the traditional look but has been totally revised inside and out. A balance shaft was added (for the first time in a Boxer) to achieve smoothness at high speeds, plus loads of new electronics. Light materials, such as magnesium, and the most advanced calculation and simulation methods have been used extensively to keep the weight down. All these trimmed off 3kg, despite a 40cc increase in displacement over the old engine of the R 1150 GS.
The unique Paralever rear suspension and the Telelever front, and every other structural part of the machine were also subjected to the same ruthless weight loss regime by the fanatical slave drivers in Munich, who trimmed a kilo here and a few hundred grams there, while increasing strength and stiffness.

The result is a wonderful ride, although getting on the machine is a tall order for the vertically-challenged, which would be anyone under 170cm. The seat height is 840mm; you can swallow your pride and ask for a lower seat (with thinner padding).
Styling has also been improved, although this is a subjective area. The 1150’s beak-like over-fender looks like it has been tacked on to the bulbous tank; the new design sports lines flow more smoothly, and the Telelever’s “chicken wishbone” does not look so prominent.
A stab of the starter button produces a throaty, yet muted, growl from the exhaust. It sounds great but a check on the source of the sound reveals that even BMW has not been able to overcome the bane of chromed pipes, which turn blue, with a hint of gold, when subjected to heat.
Blipping the throttle at standstill without having any gear engaged causes the bike to lean to the right. Yes, this is a true BMW, and that tilt is an unmistakable by-product of the rotating crankshaft’s torque. Once on the move, though, the torque is cancelled out by the driveshaft.
The 20l fuel tank forms a big hump in front of the rider, and the typically-built Asian will probably find balancing the machine quite a handful, especially when it is difficult to get both feet planted firmly on either side.
Once in motion, though, all these niggling concerns vanish and the rider becomes one with the machine. That may sound clichéd but it is so true.

A hundred horses pulling an all-up weight of 225kg bike plus 80kg rider wearing 10kg of helmet, boots and protective clothing translates to a power-to-weight ratio about five times higher than your average family car with just the driver on board.
Unlike motorcycle engines of yore, modern bikes like the R 1200 GS have plenty of torque on tap throughout a wide range of revolutions – over 100Nm from 3,500rpm to 7,200rpm – so gearshifting is pretty much optional when cruising.
At the South African speed limit of 120km/h, you can stay in 4th, 5th or 6th. If the need to overtake arises, 4th will do, as will 5th or 6th. The engine is not loud enough to overpower wind noise at those speeds and the only way to find out which gear is engaged is to look at the indicator on the instruments. I found myself doing that a lot.

The light weight relative to its size means the R 1200 GS is susceptible to crosswinds. My machine and I were pushed about several times when hit by strong winds blowing across the vast plains, and also in the mountains, where valleys can funnel air currents into gusts.
The modest windshield does an excellent job of protecting the rider, but only against the wind generated by forward motion. Crosswinds result in severe and tiresome buffeting, and comfort is to be found only in riding a bit slower. Of course, ‘‘slow’’ is relative on a machine like this.
BMW picked a great place to showcase the R 1200 GS’ talents, with the winding roads drawing out an outstanding agility that leaves the rider begging for more.
The protruding cylinder heads typical of the Boxer always look like they’re in danger of scrapping the tar when you lean the machine over, but they never do. Lean left, right, left, right, left again, and some more as the corner tightens, and the bike just responds as if it were an extension of the rider. Beautiful balance, ideal riding position, lovely engine. This is magic, as only bikers know it.
There were moments when the roads were dead straight, and there was time to savour the scenery. The brown and green on one side of the mountain range give way to craggy scarps as the road climbs up, through a mountain pass and over to arid semi-desert on the other side, where orange and yellow hues dominate.

And, always, the rider has to keep an eye out for gazelles, elands, kudu and ostriches. It’s wonderful to see familiar scenes from National Geographic, but also important not to run over something big. It’s Africa, after all.
BMW Malaysia will bring the R 1200 GS here later in the year but, sadly, the taxman has not been kind to bikers. The import duty levied on big bikes used to be 60%. Now, it’s 50%, plus another 50% of the total in the form of excise duty. With a retail price of about 12,000 Euros in Europe, the R 1200 GS will likely sell for well over RM100,000 here.
You could try to explain why anyone would spend so much on a motorcycle by waxing lyrical about the engineering or technology, the styling or build quality, the charms of that Boxer engine, or that dream of selling off the house to go riding around the world some day. Or, you could simply say, ‘‘It’s a BMW’’.

I Heart Sabah ...

How time flies! It seemed like only yesterday I was back in Sabah after a long time away (having left in January 1993). Now, it's been 10 years since I went back to Kota Kinabalu in October, 2003, with the now-defunct Ford Lanun Darat programme. Much has changed. Back then, it was near-impossible to find camping gear in KK, now there are many shops offering first rate items.
Memories came rushing back on the Borneo Safari recently, when the first day's campsite at Kiulu seemed so familiar. Then ... of course, it was where we camped during Lanun Darat #17!
Sabah was where it all began for me ... 4X4, that is. First, the early years of the Borneo Safari in the early 1990s, then the unforgettable Camel Trophy of 1993.
Lanun Darat was a very successful and popular programme run by Ford to help customers of its Ranger and Everest 4X4s to learn the fundamentals of 4WD and how to get the most out of their vehicles while enjoying the great outdoors. It ended several years ago but there is talk, and some hope of it being revived. If you own a Ford 4X4 and want to see that happen, do let Sime Darby Auto Connexion know how you feel. Call them, write to them, text them, twit it ...  

My story from October 2003

IN Sabah, everyone drives a 4X4 vehicle. At least, that seems to be the perception among other Malaysians. A first-time visitor stepping out of the Kota Kinabalu International Airport may well think that this is one rough country, given the number and variety of tough-looking vehicles in the parking lot.
Toyota Landcruisers and Hiluxes, Nissan Patrols, Isuzu Invaders and Troopers and Land Rovers are everywhere. And, in the past few years, the Ford Ranger has won over many Sabahans as well.
Ford Malaysia, recognising the importance of this easternmost state’s importance as a market for its pick-ups, recently held the first-ever Lanun Darat 4X4 expedition for Sabahans who own the Ranger.

Since the programme began five years ago, the 16 previous expeditions in Peninsular Malaysia have proved very popular among owners of the tough Ford trucks, many of whom return again and again for more thrills. It is also an avenue for Ford to maintain close rapport with its customers.
Lanun Darat #17 proved to be different in several ways. Logistics was the first challenge since quite a lot of equipment had to be flown in or shipped over from the peninsula.
For example, Kuala Lumpur offers shoppers a bewildering choice of tents, sleeping bags and other camping gear. But the options are limited in Sabah. Therefore, these items had to be purchased in KL and shipped over, and then distributed, free of charge, to the hundred or so participants who had eagerly signed up for the event.
When all these difficulties had been overcome, Sabah showed that it had many advantages for the kind of back-to-nature adventure that the Lanun Darat programme aims to promote.
A typical Lanun Darat event in the west would require two to three hours of highway motoring before the dirty bit - the real fun - began. In Sabah, the adventure started less than 10km from the flag-off, held at the Ford Concessionaires facility in Inanam, a light industrial area just outside KK.
The terrain was spectacular. One minute, you were on a rather ordinary country road. One left turn later, the trail began climbing steeply, and kept getting steeper.

For those of us from West Malaysia who had gone along for the ride, the most amazing part about these tracks, which were so steep that low-ratio gears had to be engaged, was that the local residents traversed them daily, to and from their homes.
The GPS (Global Positioning System) showed that we were less than 30km, as the crow flies, from downtown KK. No wonder the high percentage of 4X4 vehicles in Sabah – there are so many places people need to go to which ordinary cars simply cannot reach.
Before long, the convoy of 35 Rangers moved into the really mountainous area of Kiulu, where swift streams churned up excitement and trepidation in equal measures.
First-timers probably felt queasy watching the truck before theirs plunge into the fast current, and seeing those big wheels disappear beneath the seething waters.
The knowledge that it was safe, that the guy in front made it across, should be reassuring. And, it was, but you just couldn’t help worrying a little. What if I got it wrong? There were so many things that could go wrong: going in too fast or too slow; steering too far right or left; easing off the accelerator too early or too late ...
And then it was over, and with success, a feeling of overwhelming exhilaration, of achievement! It was great. This was what life’s all about! Until the next, bigger, deeper and faster stream.
All along the way, we learnt from each other. There was always some useful tip someone else had which I had not thought or heard of, or something I considered basic but which the other fellow never knew.
There was also the spectacular scenery to savour while negotiating rocky tracks that clung precariously to the near-perpendicular sides of hills which soared straight up on one side and, on the other, dropped to lush green bamboo-clad valleys a long, long way below.
We camped next to a lovely boulder-strewn river which provided crystal-clear water for bathing, and a farmer’ s hut which had Astro, via which the Sabahan football fans watched their team lose to MPPJ.
Lanun Darat ended with a drive along the white sandy beach to the Rasa Ria Resort at Pantai Dalit. By then, the participants did not need any prompting when asked if another such event would be a good idea.

Deja view ... same place (as photo above), 10 years later.

Abandoned Over 10 years In Jungle? No Problem, Drive It Out

BREAKING NEWS! I must share this incredible true story that is unfolding as I write each word. I have contacted the friendly folks at Earth Lodge and sought their permission to share the story and their photograph. They are gathering more details and putting together a more complete story, so stay tuned for updates.

The following was first shared by Earth Lodge on their Facebook page.

Surely an unusual sight in the wilds of Ulu Muda. This Land Rover was abandoned and left in the jungle for "dead" must be more then 10 years ago.
Everybody thought that was its final resting place, looking at its condition and what was growing on it.
Then, a few months ago, a local villager who bought it somehow brought it back to life and actually drove it out of the forest to the banks of Sungai Muda near Earth Lodge.
With the high water level at the lake they manage to float it out using this home-made bamboo raft! May this lucky Landie live a long life!!


https://www.facebook.com/earthlodgemalaysia



A small plug for Earth Lodge ...
A small Eco Lodge in the middle of the Wilds of Ulu Muda, Kedah, Malaysia. 
Located at Kuala Labua, reached after a 14km by local sampan (boat) ride across Muda Lake and up Muda River. The area has most of Peninsula Malaysia's mega fauna, more than 300 species of birds including all 10 Malaysian Hornbill species.
They have 10 rooms in 5 cabins and 4 dorms all with attached bathrooms with sit toilets. Packages offered include boat transfers, all meals, accommodation, guides and activities.

Earth Lodge is a place to relax while experiencing the tropical rainforest and its wild denizens.

Activities to do while at Earth Lodge apart from just .... taking it easy!

* Watch birds
* Wildlife watching
* Easy 2hr hike through pristine jungle to visit the newly discovered limestone hill and caves
* Visit nearby wildlife salt-licks
* Tubing / rafting slowly down river
* Frolicking in nice cool jungle stream
* Overnight at a wildlife hide
* Nature photography
* Scientific field research

4X4s To The Rescue!

Ford Ranger to the rescue ... pic and Ranger by Top Gear Malaysia Editor Hezeri Samsuri.

Ready to roll, and row ... preparing to set off from 4X4 Shoppe in Kg Pandan, KL.

THIS will be a post of few words, because each picture is worth thousands. This is a compilation to show the severity of the disaster, and what individuals are doing to help in any way they can.
I am heartened by the Facebook posts of my 4X4 friends in Peninsular Malaysia, many of whom have set aside whatever is important in their daily lives to go help the flood victims of Kuantan and other affected areas along the East Coast.
Thanks in particular to Top Gear Malaysia Editor Hezeri, who is in the thick of the aid efforts with his Ford Ranger, Adnan Abdullah and his Land Rover friends, Mike Kik and his half-dozen Ranger brothers, for permission to repost their photos.
We in the 4X4 fraternity spend much time and money in pursuit of our passion, in upgrading our skills and vehicles to traverse difficult terrain, including water hazards.
Now that the need for these is real and urgent, it is great to know that a flotilla is on the way to render assistance anywhere and any way it is needed. Syabas, everyone!
It must be noted that rallying to the call when help is needed is nothing new for the "serious" 4X4 enthusiasts, with veterans regularly going to render assistance at disaster scenes near and far, within our nation's borders as well as beyond, most recently, at the typhoon-hit Tacloban region of the Philippines. Other notable relief missions were to flood-hit Johor in 2006-7, and after Boxing Day 2004 tsunami devastated Banda Aceh, Sumatra.
What's encouraging now is that there are many new faces, people who have just recently become 4X4 owners themselves, who are volunteering on their own accord. Kudos to them.
Social media has also helped greatly, with personal appeals for food, clothing bedding and other supplies, as well as cash, all being received with overwhelming response from friends, and friends of friends.
It is worth noting that behind each volunteer in a 4X4 are dozens of friends and well-wishers who have generously contributed in cash and/or kind to the relief efforts.

Some photos of the various scenes in Kuantan are from this Facebook page, where there are many more images of the unfloding tragedy.