Goodbye, Pak Nadjib, my friend

Fatkhun Nadjib AS 12.03.1964 - 29.11.2014

Update - A timely and well-deserved tribute to Pak Nadjib 04.12.2014

The measure of a friendship is not time. It is not how long you have been acquainted, nor is it how much time you have spent together. It is quality.
I have not known Fatkhun Nadjib for long, nor have we spent that much time together. We first met at the Jeruton Hotel in Brunei around the third week of October, 2012.
I had just driven solo from my hometown of Kuching, Sarawak, on my way to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, for the Borneo Safari, and Nadjib was a member of the GT Radial-sponsored team from Jakarta, Indonesia, headed the same way for the same purpose.
There were about a dozen of them, all from a club called, quite appropriately, Everything Four Wheel Drive (EFWD), so I had a tough time remembering their names and faces after the initial round of introductions, what with my failing short-term memory and all that.

The 'Everything Four Wheel Drive'
 decals that I display with pride.

Aside from team leader Susanto Harimuljo, soon to be known by all and sundry as simply "Santo", the other person whom I got to know right away was Pak Nadjib.
As that was the first time I had gotten to know Indonesians up close and personally, I called everyone Pak, realising only later that I was actually older ... errrm, more senior ... than most of them.
Pak Nadjib was instantly memorable not only because of his distinctive long and curly mane of grey hair and unforgettable craggy face, but because of his warmth, his friendly and unassuming personality.
Even though I struggled to understand their Bahasa Indonesia, I felt that he and I became friends right away. Over the next two weeks, under the arduous conditions of the Borneo Safari, I would also establish firm friendships with the rest of the EFWD gang.
I felt ashamed that, after 50 years and having travelled over much of the world, I had not gotten to know my next-door neighbours better. They are the finest bunch of mates a bloke could wish to have alongside when the going got tough, as they did in Borneo Safari 2012 (and indeed, any Borneo Safari in any year).
Among this group of confidence-inspiring bunch of off-roaders, Pak Nadjib stood out as the cool guy, totally unshakeable and imperturbable, always smiling and not only willing but eager to lend a hand to any and all in need.
Nothing seemed to upset or shock him, not mishaps or vehicle breakdowns, or bad weather, or, as is common in 4X4 adventures, when "shit happens".

Part of what defined Nadjib's character that year was his choice of ride, a venerable Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 that dated from the 1970s. "Bangor" had a three-speed gearbox and was powered by the original six-cylinder petrol-fueled F-series engine, unlike many of the ther highly modified vehicles on the start line.
Over the eight days that we tackled the rugged terrain of Sabah's interior, I always felt comforted when Pak Nadjib and Bangor were just in front of me, or in my rear view mirror.
He was the kind of person that exuded a calm confidence that convinced all around him that all was good, "no worries, everything will be just fine", no matter how rough the going was right then.
He had a lot more mechanical issues with his old car than I had with my then-brand new Land Rover Defender. Many a time, I stopped because he pulled over with some issue or other, and just observed as he and his co-driver, his son Ramadhan Dede, just got on with the repairs. In no time, we would be on our way again.
During one stretch when we spent a lot of time waiting in the beautiful meadows of Kota Belud for our turn to make progress, Pak Nadjib seemed to be spending an inordinate amount of time talking on a satellite phone.

He looked tired and when I asked if everything was okay, he just smiled and said that his wife had undergone an operation and was recuperating in hospital. He and his son were in Sabah so there was not much they could do, and that was that.
For me, Borneo Safari remains a happy memory not only because of the great 4X4 adventures we encountered along the way, and the awesome scenery, but also the many new friends I made along the way, especially the Indonesians and, in particular, Pak Nadjib, Santo, super mechanic Ero "the Hero" Kebo Ireng, Pak Herman and Pak Budhi.
Our journey together did not end with the closing dinner in Kota Kinabalu, for the Indonesians of EFWD had not only secured the Longest Journey Travelled To Get To The Start award (having set out on a ferry from Jakarta and overland via Pontianak, Tebedu, Serian, Sibu, Bintulu, Brunei, Limbang and Lawas) but also had the longest drive ahead just to get home.

I accompanied them on part of that journey until Kuching, where they spent a night as guests at my home, before we said goodbye and they headed off for the Sarawak-Indonesia border at Tebedu-Entikong.
I never saw Pak Nadjib again. I will never see him again.
The following year, I caught up with several of the EFWD guys at Borneo Safari 2013, including Santo, Ero, Paks Herman and Budhi, but Pak Nadjib was not with them. He had other plans.
This year, again, I journeyed with the regulars through another Borneo Safari and, again, Pak Nadjib was not able to join them.

We did stay in touch through Facebook, and I was able to follow some of his further adventures, as he did mine.
Every now and then, he would ask when I was going to come visit him and the other 4X4 enthusiasts in Jakarta.
"Soon," I'd reply each time.
This year, Santo again invited me to come visit and I resolved to make the trip in early 2015. I looked forward to meeting up with all my friends there, including Pak Nadjib.
That is one resolution I will now not be able to fulfill.
On the night of Nov 29, 2104, Pak Nadjib was killed by a speeding motorist. He was just 50.

This sequence of shots from a video
 show the last moments before
Nadjib was cruelly struck down.

His last moments were spent doing what I will always associate with the kind of man he was - trying to rescue another motorist trapped in his wrecked vehicle after an accident.
According to the facts that have emerged since, Pak Nadjib had been with his family on their way from Bandung heading towards Jakarta when they came across the scene of an accident.
The driver of a minibus that had been involved was still trapped in the mangled cabin.
Pak Nadjib did what I have seen him done many times before, park his car safely in front of the distressed vehicle and set about helping the victim.
A video taken by Ramadhan showed that Pak Nadjib was conscious of the danger he was in, and checked a couple times to ensure that the situation was safe before getting back to the rescue work at hand.
What he could not foresee was that a reckless motorist would drive by so fast and so near the site.
In an instance, a good friend to many, a good man, a good husband and a good father, was lost.
There are no words to describe the loss.
In the grand scheme of things, I have not known Pak Nadjib a long time, nor did I spend a whole lot of time with him. But in those fleeting moments we did share, doing the things we both loved, he and I became friends. Good friends.
On Facebook, there has been an outpouring of grief and tributes from many people who have known Nadjib, who have regarded him as a teacher and mentor in 4X4. They are not only from throughout Indonesia but also from Sabah, Brunei and Sarawak, everywhere he had been and touched those who have known him.
Goodbye and rest in peace, my friend Fatkhun Nadjib.
My heartfelt condolence to his family.

 

   

(L to R) Pak Nadjib, Ramadhan and Santo in happier times.

Earth, Winch & Fire (and Water) - The Elements of Borneo Safari 2014

ALL the elements came together to make Borneo Safari 2014 a classic. It did not start off that way, although veterans might argue that a slow, disorganised, chaotic (and, dare we say ... BORING?) start is also part of Borneo Safari's many cherished traditions.
After some bold venue and format changes in the past couple of years, the flag-off returned to the Sabah Tourism Board building in Kota Kinabalu's Gaya Street. It was bustling and crowded, which emphasised and amplified the scale of this year's record participation of 270 vehicles in Sabah's, and indeed, Borneo's, premier 4X4 event.
A couple of years ago, the entry list neared 200 (or was it just over 200?) cars, which led to some mutterings about traffic jams in the jungle despite the magnificent scenery of the route and overall praise from participants, and the 240 or so last year also raised concerns about whether the Safari was getting too big, too popular, and a victim of its own success. Well, it certainly seems to be getting more popular with each passing year.
After being duly flagged off by Sabah Tourism Minister Datuk Seri Panglima Masidi Manjun and other dignitaries, the convoy departed the state capital for nearby Sepanggar Bay, where the first competitive special stages (SS) were to be held.

A Slow Start
With so many cars to get safely into the jungle and the first night's camp site near Kota Belud, there was no time for dallying so most participants did not get to witness the action. This was another departure from the Borneo Safari of old, which was centred on the competition.
Thanks to the modern wizardry of Facebook and Whatsapp, the actual Safari participants followed the competitive action through photo and video updates posted by others and shared instantly around the world.

Anyone with a connected phone
could see more of the Borneo
Safari action than the participants.

So, "did you know the Sandakan car rolled on SS2?" was answered with "ya bah, my friend Whatsapped the pictures".
Anyone anywhere, as long as they have a smart phone (and who does not have one these days) can follow the action almost in real time, except actual Borneo Safari participants who have headed into the remote interior, out of phone signal range.
GPS tracks had been used to guide the participants since a couple of years ago, with limited success, and the failures continued this year. With an overly complicated arrangement that require following detailed, counter-intuitive instructions, it was not long before calls of "help, we're lost" started going out. And this was not even six hours into the event.
Then, the first real problem cropped up. A mild-mannered stream that we had to cross had been swollen into a raging, impassable torrent by heavy rain upstream. Many cars had to turn back and new plans had to be hastily made.
After a detour, original hard-core track and designated camp site of Plan A had to be abandoned. The various groups had to improvise and find whatever makeshift campsite they could for the night, hopefully before it got dark.
This was not a source for complaints, though, because it is accepted that in the Borneo Safari, Man can plan all he wants, but Nature has the final say.
Even though it was disappointing at the time, the decision to backtrack would turn to be a wise one a couple days later, with the most dramatic proof that high water could be one hell of a challenge.
If Day One had gone according to plan, everyone would have their craving for 4X4 action satiated already before emerging near the town of Kota Belud to face a 380-kilometre drive on tarmac up north to Pitas and then down south to Kota Marudu and on to Telupid, near the centre of Sabah.
But without the original track and campsite, it meant two days and over 480km (including 100km on the first day) of driving, there was still no sign of mud, and no opportunity to engage even 4 High, much less 4 Low!
The briefing for the media group on the morning of Day 3 brought no joy. "No off-roading today," media chief Hilary Francis announced. Some groaned silently while others were not so silent.
After refuelling and following directions for some 15 kilometres, a left turn brought some hope. It was a dirt track. Not quite what everyone had been preparing a whole year for, but at least it was not tar-sealed.

Ini Kali Lah!
Then, a stream crossing. A proper, Sabah-style fording under the brilliant sun, no less.
Then, it began. Hard Core! A mud hole, as deep as one dared hope for, full of gloriously brilliant orange mud.
The inaccurate briefing had caught many people off guard, wearing sandals and slippers which were totally inappropriate for the serious work ahead so there was a frantic rush to change into the proper footwear and attire. Nobody complained about the misinformation, they were simply to excited and not a little intimidated by the rough terrain ahead.

It begins!

This, finally, was the Borneo Safari we had come for, that we had looked forward to all year. For the first-timers, this was beginning to look like the stories they had been hearing about from previous editions. "Ini kali lah!"
Thus, began the low-gear crawls, the optimistic charges, the shouts and the frantic gestures. Out came the gloves and the winch cables, and the snatch blocks.
One by one, the cars went into the thick gooey mud and the drivers tried their best to bulldoze through to the other side, only to be foiled and had to be dragged out with varying degrees of difficulty.
Occasionally, someone like Brunei's Shamsuddin Zai would succeed in powering his way through to resounding applause and cheers. But the monster ruts he created in the process ensured that such success was few and far in between.  

Shamsuddin "Nissan King" Zai powers through ...

Be Careful What You Wish For
We certainly got our wish. The rest of the the day was spent slowly and painfully negotiating the multiple obstacles that lay ahead. More mud holes, steep and slippery ascents and descents, all the essential ingredients of a classic Borneo Safari were served up, one after another.
It was not long before the tough going took its toll on the vehicles, with mechanical failures occuring at the very first mudhole.
A broken driveshaft here, a shattered pinion gear there, an entire axle ripped off, a tyre puncture halfway up a treacherous slope, burnt-out winches or broken ropes or cables, all these more were occurring at a furious pace up and down the convoy.

In the afternoon, it poured. What was already a difficult track became a Herculean challenge.
It was teamwork that got each car through, slowly, painfully, an inch at a time, then a foot.

High Water
By late afternoon, the various groups had become mixed up and the convoy stretched over many kilometres.
The lead element of the media group, comprising four vehicles, reached the biggest of several streams in the Tawai area about 3.20pm and forded the clear waters without drama.
When the main body arrived less than half an hour later, the water level had risen considerably and it was beginning to look dangerous.
Media chief Hilary had misgivings about making the crossing but information from some participants bathing in the stream indicated it might be safe to attempt.
It would prove to be a mistake, as the strong current pushed his Trooper off-course in mid-stream, and a desperate and urgent rescue effort had to be mounted, with no time to waste. (See separate story)
Fortunately, everyone aboard was saved and all ended well, other than the 15-hour soaking that the car had to endure before the raging waters subsided sufficiently for a salvage operation to be carried out.

Earth and Fire
Not everyone had the same level of adrenalin and drama. One group missed the junction and ended up wandering on tarmac for another long day, and then spent an even longer day waiting for the others to catch up with them.
Then, just as they were about to have some fun, a Nissan Patrol from Brunei was brought to a screeching halt by a wheel bearing failure.

Mahmood "Komando Hangus" Omar and his charred car.

Mahmood Omar had to rely on a buddy to drive him over five hours to Tawau to look for a replacement part, and endured another five hours back to his stranded car, only to discover it had caught fire while he was gone. A wiring fault and subsequent short circuit was the suspected culprit.
There was not much else left for Mahmood to do except accept a tow from his buddy but his tales of woe were not over. The towing vehicle's tyres threw up rocks that shattered his windscreen.
But all these have not damped the enthusiasm of Mahmood, now dubbed "Komando Hangus" (burnt commando) by his friends. He has vowed to return for Borneo Safari 2015, better prepared than ever.

Imbak Canyon

The official destination for Borneo Safari 2014 was Imbak Canyon,  a forest conservation area famous for its wide waterfall. Sadly, most participants never got to see this spectacular wonder of nature. Only a handful of official and media vehicles were allowed into the conservation headquarters area because of space constraints so we will have to be content with their offical photo of what we missed.

Here Be Elephants
The rest of the convoy moved on to the oddly named Camp Hitachi (because it is identified by some abandoned Hitachi brand machinery, apparently) for a two-night stay.
A pair of exhausted competitors from Sarawak pulled over at the side of the track for a brief rest and promptly fell asleep.
When co-driver Tze Kim woke up, he nudged his partner Jack Then and asked: "Are there elephants in Sabah?"
His drowsy buddy wondered why he would come up such an odd question, whereupon Kim replied: "Because there is one looking at us."

Earth + Water = Mud

Jack Jones from Kuching enjoying the mud.

The journey from Camp Hitachi back out to Lahad Datu and civilisation would prove to be everything that 4X4 aficionados could wish for, and then some.
Winching, more winching, more mechanical failures, tyre punctures, flat batteries, and more. Much more.
Some of the bigger vehicles that had attracted admiration at the start line were now beginning to inspire dread rather than awe because their weight was proving to be a severe impediment to progress.
While the lighter vehicles could winch themselves through the quagmires, the massive beasts, some of them crippled by broken drivetrains, needed multiple lines from several of the most powerful winches available to coax them out.
Suffice to say, everyone was relived when the hard core stuff ended. Much as we enjoyed deploying the equipment and practising the skills, there came a point when enough was enough. And we had had enough.
The rest of Borneo Safari 2014 would prove to be a breeze as we took in the sights of Lahad datu, Ranau and the abandoned Mamut copper mine, and an ample opportunities to catch up with our fellow travellers under more sociable circumstances, and a good time was had by all.

   

Come Hell or High Water - Drama at Tawai (Imbak Canyon)

When things go wrong, events often happen so fast that most people do not know what to do. They need time to think, to figure out what is the best course of action, to work out a solution.

Only, there is simply no time. Faced with such a crisis last week, Michael "Mike" Jose did not waste a moment. He grabbed a winch cable - literally the only lifeline around - and plunged headlong into the raging torrent.

His was the first life at risk, and he laid it on the line because his friends were in danger.

The stream less than 30 minutes earlier.

Barely half an hour earlier, I had driven across a calm stream, with water so clear we could see the smooth stones lining the bottom. It was 3.28pm, according to the EXIF data from photos and videos I took while fording the shallow water. 

The location was N 5.459667 E 117.159667, a place called Tawai, about 19 kilometres south of Telupid town.
It was October 28, Day Three (of eight) of Borneo Safari 2014, a planned 1,300km trek that had taken us thus far north from Kota Kinabalu to Pitas and Kota Marudu, and back south to Telupid.
There had not been much action in the first two days, only a lot of tarmac, and there were already rumblings of discontent about how boring the event was turning out to be. We should have been more careful about "what you wish for ..."
By the time panicky and frantic shouts over the VHF radio drew me back to the scene, Hilary "Alee Boy" Francis was in deep trouble.

I grabbed my camera and snapped the first shot of the unfolding drama at 4.07pm.

Hilary's Trooper was stranded in the middle of the stream, now swollen by heavy rain upstream into a ferocious, life-threatening monster. He was not alone as his wife Lynn was in the back seat, and Isuzu Malaysia manager Azhar was in the front passenger's seat, all of them with water up to their chests. And the water level was still rising, rapidly.

There was a lot of shouting among the crowds that had gathered on either bank.

Then, Mike picked up the winch cable and dived into the swift current. He was swept away almost immediately but had planned his path correctly and was pushed up against the quickly sinking vehicle. Ignoring the pain of being buffeted by swift water against hard steel and on the verge of drowning, he managed to secure the steel wire rope to the wildly rocking Trooper. 

There was now a glimmer of hope for the vehicle's three occupants, plus Mike himself, by now also stranded in the middle of the angry currents.

Meanwhile, the Isuzu's soaked electrical system began shorting out, winding up Hilary's power window as he tried desperately, fruitlessly, to keep it down. At one point, the wipers started sweeping the windscreen, all on their own. 

The danger was far from over. While the single winch line was able to prevent the car from being swept downstream, the current still threatened to topple it on its side. 

By then, enough time had passed for plans to form, and a light nylon line was successfully thrown from the far bank out to the trapped occupants, who then used it to pull a second winch cable anchored to a vehicle on that side.

With two cables, one on either side, the situation stabilised a bit. The tension of the two winches had to be adjusted constantly to prevent the car toppling over as the current pushed it one way, then the other. 

But the water level was still rising fast and soon, all four people were up on the roof of the car.

All hopes of winching the vehicle to safety faded, and thoughts now turned to saving the four lives.An empty jerry can was turned into a makeshift life preserver, used to throw a line out to the trapped people.

It was not easy but after some hairy misses, all four were eventually pulled to safety, soaked and shivering but alive.

Mike was not the only one who rushed to assist, there were many others who also helped to rig up the cars, lines and other equipment without which success would not have been possible. 

But it is clear that his role was critical to the rescue. If he had not made the initial plunge when he did, the rest would not have mattered. And, by the time the others went into the current to help, they at least had a safety line to cling to, the line that Mike had swum out to attach earlier.

The water continued rising until the Trooper's roof was all that could be seen. There was not much else that could be done except to prepare some hot food and drinks for the survivors and get them into dry clothes.

The unfortunate Trooper remained submerged a further 15 hours until 7.30am the following morning, when the river had subsided enough for it to be pulled onto dry land.

Eager hands got to work and within a few hours, all the water had been drained, oils changed and it was running like a Trooper again. The show must go on.

Hilary is safe but helpless to save his car.

There was another twist in the tale, towards the end. When every official and participant gathered at the Hakka Hall in Kota Kinabalu on the evening of Sunday, November 2, to celebrate the conclusion of another successful Borneo Safari, Mike was not present. 

When he should have been feted as Man Of The Hour, indeed of the entire event, for his heroism at Tawai, a series of miscommunication ended up with him not having a ticket to attend the official dinner, even as many groups reported that they had extra tickets because some members could not attend. Something must be done to put right this sad turn of events. 

Mike George Awa is a 26-year-old Lun Bawang from Long Sukang, near Lawas, Sarawak. He is an experienced mechanic whose resume includes supporting the Japanese team that competed in previous Borneo Safaris.  

So, where is the Government fuel subsidy that everyone is talking about ...

Sorry folks, have not been posting stories of late. No excuses, just did not feel like writing. Now, I have something to get off my chest.

So, tell me again, where is that fuel subsidy from the Government that everyone is talking about?
You buy a car, below 1,800cc like most people, because that is all you can afford. Let's say it rolls out the factory gates priced at RM40,000. 

At that price, a fair profit has already been made by the factory, sufficient to pay for its factory rental, equipment amortisation, suppliers, employees' wages, etc. All fair enough.

Don't take my word for it, see it for yourself here: http://www.maa.org.my/info_duty.htm

The Government has been kind enough to do away with import duty from Asean nations, in the spirit of cooperation and all that.
It now takes just 75% in excise duty on your sub-1,800cc car. That's RM30,000.
So, it reaches the distributor at a cost of RM70,000 plus transport and miscellaneous charges. The distributor, and the dealer down the line, have to make a profit to cover their costs and, simply because they are in business to make a profit. Fair enough.

Say, they mark up 15% of RM70,000, which brings the price to RM80,500.

The taxman is not done yet. He takes a further 10% in sales tax. That's RM8,050, which pushes the price to RM88,550.

When you pay RM88,550, remember that RM38,050 (that's roughly 43%) of the car's price is already in the Government's pocket.

Then you drive for the next 15 years. Car companies calculate warranties based on an average annual usage of 20,000km. So, you drive 300,000km. At an average of 8l/100km (a decent, not so great, not too bad fuel consumption for a 1,800cc car), you burn up 24,000l in 15 years.

Now, the Government already has 3,805,000 sen of your hard-earned money (which has been already income-taxed, by the way).

Forget about complex compound interests and overnight rates the Government can earn from holding YOUR money over 15 years, that amount can subsidise YOUR 24,000 litres of fuel at 158.54 sen per litre.

Now, I quote from The Star Wednesday August 20, 2014 MYT 12:00:00 AM , i.e., before the latest round of oil price drops and subsidy rationalisation, (http://www.thestar.com.my/Business/Business-News/2014/08/20/Multitiered-fuel-subsidy-good-for-Malaysia-says-economist/): "As of July 2014, the actual price of RON95 petrol was RM2.85 and diesel RM2.71. The flat rate subsidies of 75 sen per litre for RON95 and 71 sen per litre for diesel are extended to all private and commercial vehicles."

You earn an income, you pay income tax. That pays for the country's services to you. You pay road tax to use the roads.  You pay toll to use some other roads. You pay sales tax to pay for the Government's expenses. You pay excise tax some more ... For what?

So, remind me again, where is the "fuel subsidy by the Government" that everyone is talking about? It looks like WE are subsidising the Government after all.

I am getting a new Land Rover ... umbrella!

Yay! I won me an umbrella! Not just any umbrella, but a genuine Land Rover All-Weather Umbrella.
I'll think of it as my latest Defender, the one that defends me against the elements, like the sun, and the rain, and the wind.
Thanks to Land Rover Defender Malaysia's Facebook page for running the contest.
Here's what was required:

Here's my winning entry, taken during a trip to the Bario highlands of Sarawak:

A misty morning in Bario with Sarawak 4X4 veteran Richard Voon.

Here's my other entry which did not win, but which I actually prefer:

Here's why I am looking forward to the most useful prize.

Not quite Borneo Suffering, but still Drama kot

When Sabahans tell you that a 4X4 expedition is "hard core", believe them. When they say the next trip will be super hard core, be afraid. Be very afraid. Especially if they invite you to go along, and you're freshly out of excuses to decline.
For years, I've been hearing about this place called Deramakot. Whenever Sabah Offroad Adventure Association (SOAA) members get together and the chat turns to how tough a just-ended trip had been, it crops up, "have you been to Deramakot?" It means "you don't know what tough is till you've done it."
If you have been, then the recent event is compared to Deramakot. If you have not, you shut up and listen to the veterans' tall tales about winching 30 times to get up one hill. About taking a whole day to cover one leech-infested kilometre, about having to drag along crippled and broken-down vehicles when even the best-equipped, fully functioning Land Cruisers find the going torturously slow.
And the SOAA has a couple of RTM-made videos on YouTube to back up their claims.
Deramakot Forest Reserve comprises 55,139 hectares of mixed dipterocarp forest located some 160km south-east of Kota Kinabalu and 90km south-west of Sandakan.
Within its boundaries, there are several disused logging trails that can be explored with suitably-outfitted 4X4 vehicles, with prior permission from and under close supervision by the Sabah Forestry Department.

Over the years, these trails have provided a suitable challenge for many expeditions big and small, including the annual Borneo Safari organised by the Kinabalu Four Wheel Drive Club (now evolved into the Sabah Four Wheel Association).

In January last year, the SOAA mounted its first expedition to Deramakot, dubbed "Survival Of The Fittest" that apparently lived up to its billing, and then some. They're still talking about it.
Like a good horror movie, the tales are both scary and irresistible at the same time. The hard slog that went on day and night as the rain hammered down incessantly, and the numerous obstacles that broke even the toughest vehicles, should have been enough to deter any sensible person from attempting the trek again but, like a flame draws a moth, the stories only drew even more 4X4 aficionados to Survival Of The Fittest II.
"Our members have been clamouring for a return to Deramakot, especially those who missed out on the first round last year," said SOAA president Hiew Min Kiyun.
When they invited this writer to go along, the reaction was definitely one of mixed feelings. The experience would be welcome, as would the bragging rights as a survivor of Deramakot. But, being more of a leisure, cold beer and camping kind of guy, did I really want to suffer for three days and two nights? Well, the pull was strong, and the push was that I had run out of excuses.
Hopping into the Land Cruiser 80 Series, the legendary "Ninja Turtle" of Expedition Leader Alvin Leong and co-driver Vivian Julip for the 200-plus kilometre drive from KK through Kundasang and Ranau to Telupid, I was treated to more war stories from the previous year's trip.
After turning off onto the unpaved track to the forest reserve, there were hints that this year's event might be less stressful, even if just a little.
The local weather had been dry for some time, and the dusty road had coated the grass and oil palms that lined the70km route with a thick layer of orange-brown dirt. Anyone who has experienced off-road driving would know that the difference between a dry and a wet track can be huge.
But, just after the convoy arrived at Sabah Forestry headquarters and set up camp, the rain began. Game on! Maybe. The shower did not last long.
After dinner, the participants were required to attend a briefing by the forest rangers on the Deramakot Forest Management Unit's reason for being and the many do's and don'ts for all visitors, especially the strict rules on trash - everything brought in, even cigarette butts, must be taken out from the jungle.

The repairs begin ... after less than 1km.

Action began early the next morning when the convoy encountered a deep V-gulley just 800 metres after turning off the road and winching started in earnest and the first leeches showed up.
The first mechanical problems cropped soon after, with a ruptured air intake hose signalling that the vehicles were in for a pounding.
The horror stories of the previous trip had inspired all car owners to check and prepare their vehicles meticulously but Deramakot seemed determined to live up to its reputation, even if the sun was blazing down at that early hour.
This was going to be a contest between Man and machine on one side, and Nature on the other.
The trail had not been traversed by vehicles in over a year, and was thickly overgrown.

And here they come ...

The 4X4s had to force their way through grass and other plants that were as tall as a man, while branches and bamboo reached out from the sides to claw at the passing vehicles.
At times, it sounded like a bunch of unruly children were whacking the cars with sticks while others were scratching blackboards with their fingernails.
From then on, it was hard going but not super hard core. There was no rain. The ruts were deep, the hills steep, but no rain. Progress was slow at an average of about 5km/h, but that's fast compared to a kilometre a day of previous Deramakots. Because there was no rain.
It was still very much a hard core event, with lots of winching and breakdowns but, for the well-prepared cars and participants, not the ultimate hard core event that had been anticipated.
By day's end, the convoy had covered about 12 kilometres of the 20km trail before stopping to set up camp and fend off the few leeches that showed up.

The next day served up some mud pools and fallen trees but everyone made it out in good time and camped in relative comfort at the "White House", a bungalow for the staff of Deramakot.
The third night that had been allocated for the event was spent at Mesilou, about 5,800feet above sea level up in the Kinabalu highlands, where the freezing temperatures were a welcome change from the windless heat and humidity of Deramakot jungle.
While everyone was glad to be out without too much human suffering and damage to vehicles, many participants were left with a feeling of unfinished business.
While it was still a Drama-kot, it was not quite the "Borneo Suffering" we had anticipated. There is a need for a Survival Of The Fittest III, preferably during the wet season. But at least I am now ranked among the Fittest!

Human ballast to prevent a 3-tonne beast toppling into the mud pool.

A cry of "pacat" (leech) is enough to get squeamish types to drop their pants!

About Deramakot Forest Reserve

Map courtesy of Sabah Forestry Department.

There are logging trucks in Deramakot Forest Reserve. Because there are loggers. Yes, they cut down trees. No, it is not a mistake, nor is it a blatant disregard of regulations.
The reserve's raison d'etre, its reason for existence, is to conserve the natural resources, not to preserve. While it may be puzzling to first-time visitors, there is no confusion among those rangers who serve.
Deramakot is billed as a "well-managed forest" to be used and exploited responsibly for the benefit of the state and its people, not a virgin jungle to be preserved.
According to www.deramakot.sabah.gov.my, it was created in 1989 when the Sabah government realised that the state's forests was being depleted, including Deramakot. With help from the German Agency for Technical Cooperation (GTZ), it developed a management system aimed at responsible production of timber for logged-over forests.
The goal is "ecologically and scientifically acceptable forest management ... the intent is to manage the commercial forest reserves in a way that mimics natural processes for production of low volume, high quality, high priced timber products in a sustainable manner.
"Sustainability is defined in terms of balance nutrient cycles, forest structure, biodiversity, forest function and socio-economic needs."
"DFR will be managed under sound forest management practices in accordance with the biological, social and economic principles defined by the International Tropical Timber Organisation (ITTO), Malaysian Criteria and Indicators (MC&I), and in conformity with the existing State forest policies, environmental policies, legislation and regulations."
At the briefing for participants of SOAA's "Survival Of The Fittest II", the senior ranger said that selected trees were harvested by appointed contractors who are paid for their services while the logs are auctioned off to the highest bidders. The proceeds go to the state and are used, among other things, to pay for the upkeep and protection of the forest reserves.
The local communities living nearby are also looked after through a committee called the "Deramakot Social Forestry Committee (DSFC)". Periodic consultations with the local communities are held every 4 months.
There are no communities inside the reserve, but five villages (each comprising 20 - 50 households) located on the southern fringe of Deramakot FR have been identified.
The stated goals are to provide training and developing skills such as producing functional and decorative handicraft to ensure local communities of a livelihood; provide basic amenities such as clean water, school, etc.; and to create jobs, in line with the government policy to eradicate rural poverty.
Wildlife is also protected, with about 75% of mammals in Sabah found in Deramakot, which is a key habitat for five globally threatened large mammals: Orangutan, Pygmy Eephant, Tembadau (Banteng), Proboscis Monkey and Clouded Leopard.
Eco-tourism, defined as "responsible travel to fragile, pristine, and usually protected areas that strive to be low impact and (often) small scale (as an alternative to mass tourism)", is also encouraged.
Its purpose is to educate the traveler, provide funds for ecological conservation, directly benefit the economic development of local communities.
Hence, events like the 4X4 adventure organised by SOAA and earlier Borneo Safaris (by the Kinabalu Four Wheel Drive Club) are welcome, with strict conditions and, of course, payment of fees.
The visitors must be accompanied by forest rangers who ensure that all rules, especially those governing cleanliness and wildlife protection, are complied with at all times.

It Was A Dark And Stormy Night

It was a dark and stormy night. (I always wanted to start a story with that!) But it was really a dark night, at least. And it was raining. And there was a little lightning. So, yeah, a dark and stormy night it was on Jan 5, 2014.
My phone rang. I was not expecting any call. It was Alvin. He sells Fords for a living, and drives a Mitsubishi Triton. Why would he call me on this dark ... evening?
I pressed the green phone icon. "Hello?"
Alvin asked where I was and, before I could answer, launched into an excited stream of words that I could barely make out.
"Calm down, Alvin, I'm at home ... Bau, now tell me, slowly, what's going on."
The short version, he was also in Bau, at his wife's kampung, about 35 kilometres from my home. He had driven into a rubber estate to explore around 4pm, then decided to turn around when it started raining.
The track had become slippery very quickly, his Triton slipped off the track on its left side, coming to rest against a rubber tree. That tree propped up the truck and probably saved it from tumbling down the slope.
He needed rescuing. I was the nearest person he could contact who had a mission-ready 4X4, my trusty Borneo Safari veteran Land Rover Defender 110 HCPU (Hi-Capacity Pick-Up).

Not the best photo ever, but I was on a rescue mission, not a photo safari.

The game was afoot. Grabbed appropriate shoes, raincoat, hat (I did say it was a stormy night, didn't I) torch, straps, shackles, checked that remote control for the Warn 8274 was in the car, all good to go.
With the benefit of hindsight, should have also grabbed the handy VHF radio to go with the car-mounted mobile set, and extra torches. But I didn't. Managed without but would have been easier with.
Also, made a phone call to another buddy, Chai Yew Foo, to let him know what was happening. This was Plan B, always good to have back-up. He "rogered" and said he and his Landy Double Cab (DCPU) would be on standby. A quick post on Facebook mobile would also alert the local 4X4 community in case more help was needed later.
Road being wet and everything being dark, I drove cautiously and got to the Kg Stass junction about 45 minutes later, met up with Alvin and went to see about rescuing his stricken truck.
It was not that far from the main road, less than a kilometre.
After descending a mild slope to get to the site where the Triton was leaning against a tree, I hooked up the winch to his front recovery point and began reeling the plasma rope in.
No good, it only pulled my Defender down towards his truck.
Unhooked rope, drove in a little further and managed a tricky three-point turn and then tried to climb back up the slope.
The rain had turned the surface of the clay trail into a slick grease-like layer. There was no traction to be had, even on GT Radial Komodo MTs, which had proven quite competent in most other conditions.
A ditch running diagonally across the track ruled out a run-up to build up momentum for a charge up.
So, the plan evolved into a winch-up for the Defender, using a longer (8-metre) strap to tie the Triton to the Landy's rear bumper.
After three cycles of winching and relocating anchor point, I was sure that Alvin would be able to drive up on his own since the Defender no longer needed winching, it could climb under its own power.
But, no joy, his tyres just spun uselessly while the Triton swayed side to side. It was really slippery, and footing was treacherous for humans as well.
Only then did it occur to me to ask Alvin; "What tyres are you using?"
ATs, came the reply from the darkness. Ahhhhhh so. All Terrain tyres, a highly optimistic name.
Around this point, I really rued forgetting to bring the extra radio. It would have made communication between Alvin and me a whole lot easier.
So, the winching continued until the two-car train reached level ground.
Tired, thirsty, wet and very muddy, we had made it. The phone rang again, and it was Foo and another buddy, Keith, asking where we were and how things were going. They were on their way to our location, about five minutes away.
We waved off the cavalry, all was well and made arrangements to meet up for celebratory drinks at Bau town, about 20km away, after a quick clean-up at the Petronas station nearby.
And so, all was well that ended well. Alvin is looking for better mud tyres.
Now, if you'll excuse me, my phone is ringing ...